Most Excellent Tips for Heated Grips on the KLR!

I suggest you cut the stock grips off with a razor blade.  Then use a metal file, maybe a mill bastard, to file off the ridges on the throttle tube.  I think that will reduce chances for damage to the heating element from bending the filaments.  I think I used a preparation solvent for painting to clean the clutch side bar of all residue.

I suggest you get two sets of grips so you have two throttle side grips. The throttle side grip has a larger hole than the clutch side grip.  Then  get some bicycle grip cork tape and wrap only one layer on the metal handlebar on the clutch side.  I also suggest you put the throttle side heating element on the clutch side and the clutch side heating element on the throttle side.  The Dual Star set up uses two different elements.  With the clutch side bar insulated with the bicycle grip cork tape the throttle side heating element on the clutch side will still be hotter than the clutch side heating element on the throttle side.  If you don't swap the heating elements the clutch side will be really a lot hotter than the throttle side.  Ask Martin Earl about that.  : )  I put the heating element on the bar over the throttle tube or cork grip tape and use some sewing thread lightly wrapped around the element to help hold it in place.  I don't think the adhesive on the heating elements works very well.  I lube the heating element with High Temperature RTV and then slide the grip over the element.  A little RTV goes a long way and it's probably best to put most of it on the outboard end of the bars as the grip will squeegee it towards the switch housings.  The RTV works as a very slippery lube during the installation and then after 24 hours it is set as a very good glue, but it's easily removed later if needed.  It's nothing like the stock glue which seems to want to be part of the KLR forever.  Once the grips are on the bars I leave them alone for 24 hours so the RTV can set/cure/vulcanize.  That means I don't wait 3-4 hours and then give them a twist to see how things are going.  I leave them alone and let time do it's thing.  While waiting for 24 hours that allows me to do the wiring if I want.

Some folks like to use the city lights wiring for powering accessories.  I don't think the city lights wiring can effectively handle much of a load.  So what I like to do is use the city lights wiring to control a relay that provides power to my accessories.  The city lights wiring can be found near the right front turn signal wiring behind the fairing.  It's controlled by the key so it's only powered when the key is in the on or park position.  I never use the park position so that's not an issue for me.  I run a new circuit for power using maybe 12 or 14 gauge wire from the battery to the relay.  I put a fuse in this wire near the battery but in a location where I can get to it without having to remove a side cover or seat etc.  The fuse I use is rated at 10 amps I think.  I don't want to ever use more than 10 amps on my bike as the electrical system can't charge the battery at that rate of use.  The relay should probably be rated at 20 or 30 amps so you get longer life from it.  You can get one at Radio Shack or most decent auto parts stores.  I don't think I'd pay more than $8 for one.  The relay should have four terminals numbered 30 (power in), 87 (power out), 85 & 86 (relay control).  Hook the city lights wiring to terminals 85 & 86.  It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal in this application.  Connect the new fused wire from the battery to terminal 30.  Then connect the power wire to the heated grips switch to terminal 87.  I don't remember which color wire is ground on the Dual Star heating elements but make sure those two wires (one from each heating element) have a good solid connection that is in fact a ground.  Then hook the two remaining circuits (two wires each, one high and one low from each heating element) to the outboard terminals on the three position switch provided with the kit.  I mounted my switch so the movement is in a vertical orientation with up as high and down as low.  If you want to do that the high wires go on the bottom terminal and the low wires go on the upper terminals.

Guess that's enough for now.  I think Martin Earl covered this same procedure in detail a few weeks ago.

Let us know how it goes.


Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412  South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT



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There's no oil there. It's all in the engine. Trust me.

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